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If you want to get the best out of your subwoofers and understand how to integrate them into your Home Theater system, you must have an SPL meter. You just won't believe how useful they are!
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Radio Shack (Tandy in Australia) make a cheap analog SPL meter, which is shown here, and the buzz amongst the subwoofer fraternity is that the analog meter is better than the digital one The only thing to watch is that it is not particularly linear at low frequencies, but it can be easily modified or manually corrected |
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Quick
Tip:
An SPL meter will let you check that you have the phase switch at the best position. Find a passage that has some subwoofer action and check the level with the sub turned off. Now turn up the sub and check. Then change the phase switch and check for a third time. You may need to increase of decrease the volume of your sub to highlight the difference, but it should be easy to see which is the correct setting. |
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Notice This page is in the process of being re-written to describe using the REW software for measuring frequency response Material below this line will all change Please check back in Q3 2008 Meanwhile, here's a good discussion on using REW to integrate subs and mains |
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Measuring frequency response For measuring the frequency response of my system, the tone generator in WinISD was used to generate a specific tone and the resulting level read from a Radio Shack SPL meter, which was mounted on a tripod. When measuring the subwoofer alone, it was done outside to avoid coloration from the room. There is a picture, but I put it off-page to save on loading time (extra 10secs @56k)The following analysis was all done with the "Blast Furnace", but the results can be generalised to any sub.
Block diagram of surround amp (Pioneer VSX-D711), which is a typical arrangement
Consider the green graph for a moment. The spike at 120hz is a standing wave within the cabinet which will be discussed further in a section dealing with resonances. It is useful here because it shows one of the problems encountered when running multiple filters together, namely phase response. The blue graph shows that this peak is eliminated, not in the enclosure, but in the signal fed to the sub. To achieve this, the signal must have a sharp (but unseen here) dip at 120hz. When you consider this in addition to the large dip in response at 70hz, it suggests that the signal going to the sub is somewhat nasty. The red graph is OK for the 120hz situation, but it has those nasty dips at 80-100hz and 170hz. The situation is somewhat muddied by room nodes, which I will investigate a little later, but basically, the combined responses don't look all that good. While were talking about setting up your surround system, here's a good article on the subject from MK Sound
In Part II of this section, I do some level testing with different DVDs. While researching that data, I did a quick check to compare the sub output using LFE only versus LFE + bass component of main channels. The results showed that utilising only the LFE channel would not cost me any sub-bass Considering the results, and knowing that my front speakers give reasonable response down to 40hz, I decided to not mix any component of the main channels with the LFE channel - in other words set my amp to "large" speakers. This is generally what you will do for a Home Theatre setup if you have decent main speakers. The third question - what setting to use for the subwoofers low-pass filter, becomes a bit academic now. I want to utilise all the LFE signal, so I set the filter to it's highest setting ie 170hz.
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Last update to this page 10th May 2008